Bethany Platanella, Author at Mexico News Daily https://mexiconewsdaily.com/author/bplatanella/ Mexico's English-language news Fri, 01 Aug 2025 05:51:35 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.8.2 https://mexiconewsdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/cropped-Favicon-MND-32x32.jpg Bethany Platanella, Author at Mexico News Daily https://mexiconewsdaily.com/author/bplatanella/ 32 32 The artists behind Oaxaca’s global art fame: 10 visionaries you should know https://mexiconewsdaily.com/culture/mexican-folk-art-the-artists-behind-oaxacas-global-art-fame/ https://mexiconewsdaily.com/culture/mexican-folk-art-the-artists-behind-oaxacas-global-art-fame/#comments Fri, 01 Aug 2025 06:01:38 +0000 https://mexiconewsdaily.com/?p=542758 From Rufino Tamayo to Francisco Toledo, discover 10 visionary artists who transformed Oaxaca into Mexico's most celebrated creative hub.

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Oaxaca’s intricate weave of color, culture, cuisine, and creativity attracts Mexican folk art collectors and cultural travelers from far-flung corners of the globe. From Nelson Rockefeller, who fortified his extensive collection with hand-crafted artisan pieces while traveling through Oaxaca in the 1960s, to Janice Hatfield, who dedicated a significant portion of her amassed collection to the Smithsonian Institute, Mexico’s most colorful state stands as a leader in artistic innovation.

Who can we thank for putting Oaxaca on the creative community map? The 10 artists below represent just a fraction of the region’s visionary prowess, each contributing to the development of Oaxacan expression in a powerful way.     

Rufino Tamayo (August 26, 1899 – June 24, 1991)
Painter, modernist visionary 

A collage of Rufino Tamayo and his work
(Chilango)

Rufino Tamayo was orphaned by age 12. Born in Oaxaca, his father abandoned the family and his mother died of tuberculosis. He moved to Mexico City to live with an aunt, helping run her family’s fruit stall. This experience would profoundly impact his artistic journey, inspiring the legendary watermelon motifs for which he is so well known. Fiercely independent, Tamayo rebelled against the art scene which, at that time, was largely a series of political statements by the likes of Diego Rivera and David Alfaro Siqueiros. Instead, Tamayo chose to focus on a unique blend of European modernism and Mexican roots. He would eventually found two museums: Museo Tamayo in Mexico City, and Museo de Arte Prehispánico de México Rufino Tamayo in Oaxaca.

Francisco Toledo (July 17, 1940 – September 5, 2019)
Painter, sculptor, cultural activist 

A portrait of Francisco Toledo stroking his white beard
(Christies)

Oaxaca’s landscape and culture laid the groundwork for Toledo’s surrealist, at times fantastical, paintings, known for their rough lines and rich textures. Thanks to a rural upbringing in a Zapotec family, he was immersed in legend, myth, and the region’s wild nature from a young age. After his parents sent him to high school in Oaxaca City in the hopes he would become a lawyer, Toledo went on to study art, spending time in Mexico City, New York, and Paris, where he would befriend Rufino Tamayo. A tireless advocate for Oaxacan heritage and social justice, Toledo founded the beloved Instituto de Artes Gráficas de Oaxaca (IAGO). Perhaps his most famous work came in the form of activism — in 2002, the artist organized a protest against a proposed McDonald’s in Oaxaca City, handing out tamales at the potential site and generating the slogan “Tamales sí, hamburguesas no.”

Rodolfo Morales (May 8, 1925 – January 30, 2001)
Painter, surrealist, restorer 

Rodolfo Morales sat in front of a large painting
(Ariel Mendoza)

Morales grew up in a small Oaxacan village in a working-class family. A solitary child, he often turned to drawing to pass the time. While his parents recognized early on that Morales had artistic talent, it was his Aunt Petra who fostered his imagination and encouraged his creative side. Though his education was interrupted, Morales would later attend the Academy of San Carlos in Mexico City to study art. His style, magical realism centered on the resilience of Oaxacan women and the matriarchy, can be found on canvas and the walls of important buildings, notably the Municipal Palace of Ocotlán, which showcases a colorful depiction of local village life. Morales dedicated his latter years to restoration, bringing back to life Oaxaca’s most historic churches and convents, including the 16th-century Convent of Santo Domingo.

Amador Montes (June 16, 1975 – )
Painter, curator, boutique hotel creator 

Amador Montes wearing a black hat and sunglasses standing in front of his work
(Amador Montes/Instagram)

Amador Montes is one of Oaxaca’s most celebrated contemporary artists. He’s presented his paintings locally and globally, each piece inspired by dreams, memories, and emotions, evoking feelings of nostalgia. His luminous color palette—which reflects the full spectrum of hues ranging from bold to neutral—often features black lettering, notably the name Carmen. Much of his work is dedicated to his mother, and her name graces everything from Montes’ paintings to the two boutique hotels he opened in Oaxaca City, both named Casa Carmen. Beyond creating, Montes is also a curator, passionate in his support of young Oaxacan artists and known for hosting local exhibitions and creative dialogue.

Manuel Jiménez Ramírez (June 9, 1919 – March 4, 2005)
Alebrije pioneer and healer 

Manuel Jiménez Ramírez holding a pair of alebrijes while standing in a garden
(Wikimedia)

Manuel Jiménez Ramírez is credited as the originator of the Oaxacan alebrije, the state’s vibrant tradition of fantastical, hand-carved wooden animals and mythical creatures. As a child, he began by molding animals in clay, later discovering his true passion was in woodcarving. Known locally as “el divino,” Jiménez Ramírez believed himself to be the reincarnation of an artist, and his neighbors often regarded him as a spiritual healer. Beyond art, he worked as everything from a cane cutter to a bricklayer, basket maker, and community leader during Holy Week celebrations. Today, his children and grandchildren carry on the family legacy, shaping the artistic identity of Oaxaca at large.

Jacobo Ángeles (March 14, 1973 – )
Master alebrije carver and Zapotec cultural advocate

Jacobo Ángeles carving wood in his workshop
(Jacobo Ángeles)

Jacobo Ángeles’ creative spirit was nurtured by growing up in a Zapotec household surrounded by woodcarvers and artisans. After the sudden loss of his father when he was just 12, the young creator took charge of the family workshop, teaching the craft of carving to his younger siblings and supporting the household.

He later married María del Carmen Mendoza, and together they built the Taller Jacobo y María Ángeles, a cultural hub where traditional Zapotec weaving and carving techniques blend with cutting-edge design. His alebrijes are notable for their intricate patterns — inspired by Zapotec symbols and ancient mythology — and frequently combine mythical creatures with human features. In 2014, Jacobo was invited to meet Pope Francis and exhibit 1,200 hand-carved nativity scene figures and Christmas ornaments at the Vatican Museums.

Josefina Aguilar (February 22, 1945 – )
Iconic potter and figurine artist 

Josefina Aguilar
(Alchetron)

Hailing from the same town as Rodolfo Morales, Josefina Aguilar is internationally lauded for her vibrant, molded clay figurines representing Mexican rural life, festive traditions, saints, historical figures, and community rituals. Taught by her mother and grandmother from the age of six, Josefina began gaining attention in her youth, and her works would eventually be collected by connoisseurs like Nelson Rockefeller. Despite losing her sight in 2014, Josefina continues to shape her whimsical muñecas (dolls), relying on touch while her children help her paint. Her home and studio are a beacon for folk art collectors, and her family remains a central force in the evolution and global adoration of Oaxacan ceramics.

Pastora Gutiérrez Reyes (dates not publicly confirmed)
Revolutionary weaver and women’s advocate 

YouTube Video

BMW Foundation

Pastora Gutiérrez Reyes is a Zapotec leader and weaving artist from Teotitlán del Valle. In 1997, driven by the lack of opportunities for women in her traditional community, she cofounded Vida Nueva, the village’s first all-women’s weaving cooperative.

Together with her mother, grandmother, and friends, she guided the co-op to economic independence, education, and social change. Through Vida Nueva, Pastora helped bring public health education, workshops on domestic violence and support to further educate local women. Her impact is as much about advocacy as artistry: Today, the cooperative’s Mexican textiles are recognized for blending Zapotec tradition with the group’s innovative designs, and the co-op empowers women in rural Oaxaca.

Doña Rosa (September 4, 1900 – July 12, 1980)
Legendary innovator of Barro Negro 

Doña Rosa's discovery led artists like Carlomagno Pedro to explore new possibilities
(File photo)

In the 1950s, Doña Rosa — born Rosa Real Mateo de Nieto in San Bartolo Coyotepec — dramatically transformed the fate of Mexican pottery with a single discovery. Traditionally, the region’s barro negro (black clay) was matte and gray, relied on for its broad utility rather than its aesthetic. Doña Rosa found that by burnishing the clay with a quartz stone and firing it at a lower temperature, she could create a deep, lustrous black sheen.

This technique made Oaxacan pottery famous throughout the world. Doña Rosa’s descendants continue to run the family workshop to this day, and for art collectors serious about Mexican folk art, it’s a must-visit. Doña Rosa’s ingenuity not only upended an entire craft it also inspired a wave of creative and economic activity that continues to reverberate in Oaxaca’s Central Valleys.

Enedina Vásquez Cruz (1963 – )
Contemporary terracotta sculptor 

A Mexican woman with dark skin and braided hair, wearing a traditional red and blue Indigenous embroidered dress and a dark beaded necklace, stands smiling while holding a white jewelry display bust featuring a light-colored traditional handmade necklace and matching earrings adorned with small carved faces. A blue shawl is draped over her left shoulder, and a leafy green background is blurred behind her.
(Ministry of Culture)

Enedina Vásquez Cruz carries the centuries-old tradition of Oaxacan ceramics forward with her award-winning terracotta figures and jewelry. Trained in her family’s workshop from a young age, Enedina innovated the art when she recovered ancient slip recipes revealing a method to create an earthy palette.

In fact, the recipes uncovered over 80 natural colors, all derived from traditional sources. Her detailed works are generally centered on Indigenous women in regional dress, as well as double-sided pieces depicting religious icons and historic narratives. Her ability to connect Oaxaca’s pre-Hispanic past to contemporary beliefs has garnered Cruz a number of major national prizes, making her a major force in the region’s artistic landscape.

Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog or follow her on Instagram.

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Colonial mansions in Mexico you can actually sleep in https://mexiconewsdaily.com/travel/colonial-mansions-in-mexico-you-can-actually-sleep-in/ https://mexiconewsdaily.com/travel/colonial-mansions-in-mexico-you-can-actually-sleep-in/#respond Fri, 25 Jul 2025 21:44:48 +0000 https://mexiconewsdaily.com/?p=514544 From Mexico City to Zacatecas, these colonial wonders are just begging you to indulge in their opulence.

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Growing up as an innocent child of the 1980s and ‘90s, I had big dreams of being a princess — still do. As I aged, however, I recognized how small the princess job market was, and so I decided to settle for another regal role; a countess, or something. Living in Mexico, I’m surrounded by palaces and colonial mansions in which I can spend a night and live my royal fantasy, without the hard work of doing whatever it is that a countess actually does.

If I’ve learned one thing in my adult years, it’s that there is always someone else out there with a similar dream — maybe you, too, have gotten lost in the idea of one day waking up a viceroy, marquess or an attaché. Now, you can. These colonial mansions — defined as such when built between 1519 and 1821 and featuring thick stone walls, high ceilings and classic central courtyards — offer a unique way to experience Mexico’s rich history. Like the hidden gems featured in a previous piece on Mexico’s authentic travel treasures, these properties let you step into Mexico’s aristocratic past without sacrificing that glorious rainfall shower.

Mexico City: Gran Hotel Ciudad de México 

A stained glass ceiling
(Mad White)

This former 17th-century palace puts you in the heart of Mexico, within walking distance of the Zócalo, Metropolitan Cathedral, and National Palace, where the current president resides. One of CDMX’s oldest houses, it was once the Palacio de los Condes de Miravalle, a name you may recall from my article Know your neighborhood: Condesa, or from James Bond’s brief appearance in the Mexican capital. The third countess from this family line owned the hacienda that eventually became the neighborhood of Condesa. The boutique’s breakfast patio features a captivating fresco by Manuel Rodríguez Lozano, and its rooftop terrace offers panoramic views of Centro Histórico and a pool for the ultimate royal treatment.

Mérida: La Misión de Fray Diego 

A colonial hotel with yellow walls and white arches. A swimming pool is in the foreground.
(Expedia)

Partially built in 1596 as part of the Temple of Nuns, this mansion harbors Mérida’s most tantalizing mystery: a rumored underground tunnel connecting the adjacent church to the cathedral. Legend claims cloistered nuns used this secret passage to move unseen through the city. While archaeologists have never confirmed the tunnel’s existence, the possibility adds intrigue to your stay in one of Mérida’s storied buildings. The hotel embraces its convent origins with meditation-worthy courtyards, religious relics, and graceful iron-wrought details.

San Miguel de Allende: Casa Blanca 7

(Trip Advisor)

Mexico meets Morocco in this 300-year-old house that defies colonial convention. Spanish arches frame Islamic tiles, Berber carpets warm stone floors, and inlaid furniture, such as four-poster beds, creates an Arabian Nights atmosphere in the heart of Mexico. With just ten suites, it feels like staying in a wealthy merchant’s private home. San Miguel’s well-to-do flock to Fatima 7, the hotel’s rooftop restaurant, for Mediterranean dishes and vistas of the Templo de San Francisco, a view that perfectly captures this property’s East-meets-West magic.

Puebla: Mesón Sacristía de la Compañía 

A hotel room decorated in period Mexican colonial furniture in a 250 year old mansion in Puebla city
(Tesoros de Mexico)

Shop while you sleep at this 250-year-old treasure hunter’s paradise. Every antique in your room, from hand-carved armoires to colonial ceramics, comes with a price tag. The “hotel-antique gallery concept” turns browsing into an art form across just four rooms in the charming boutique situated on the famous Callejón de los Sapos. Sip coffee in the courtyard café while plotting which 19th-century Mexican artifacts will fit in your suitcase, or book a mole-making class in the colonial kitchen. The Mesón Sacristía is  retail therapy meets colonial history, perfect for travelers who prefer souvenirs with centuries of stories.

Guanajuato: El Mesón de los Poetas 

El Mesón de los Poetas 
(Expedia)

Breakfast with Octavio Paz, lunch with Federico García Lorca and cocktails with Sor Juana Inés de la Cruz? Bookworms will have a field day in any of the hotel’s 48 rooms, each of which honors a different poet through personalized décor and ambiance. This 18th-century mansion doubles as a living literature museum, where labyrinthine corridors echo the city’s winding alleyways. The hotel’s central courtyard, El Patio de la Palabra — The Patio of the Word — is the ideal setting to recite your latest literary masterpiece. The property also functions as an art gallery, so you’re essentially sleeping inside a cultural center where creativity flows as freely as the tequila.

Morelia: Hotel de la Soledad 

Hotel de la Soledad 
(Booking.com)

Tragedy, bankruptcy, war and resurrection: This hotel’s 290-year saga reads like a Mexican telenovela. Built in 1735, the project halted when the owners’ only son died suddenly, leaving behind a half-finished dream. The building survived Morelia’s near-abandonment during the War of Independence, multiple bankruptcies and a parade of desperate owners before its 2008 resurrection as a luxury hotel. Today it holds Small Luxury Hotels status and Condé Nast recognition, proving that sometimes the best stories come from the darkest chapters. The name “La Soledad” —  Solitude — perfectly captures the property’s epic journey from ruin to glory.

Querétaro: La Casa de la Marquesa 

La Casa de la Marquesa 
(Booking.com)

According to local lore, Emperor Maximilian slept here, and that’s just the beginning. This baroque palace was built in 1756 as a love letter — or perhaps a pacification of sorts — from the Marqués de la Villa del Villar del Águila to his wife, complete with elaborate carved stonework and Moorish-inspired arches. The 25 suites overflow with period antiques, while balconies offer views of UNESCO-listed streets that remain as lively as imperial times. The palace chapel, grand staircases, and original paintings create an atmosphere so authentically aristocratic that you may confuse your travel partner with your personal jester.

Zacatecas: Hotel Mesón de Jobito 

Hotel Mesón de Jobito 
(Hotel Mesón de Jobito)

Don Jobito died in room 107 and apparently never left. This early-18th-century inn embraces its haunted reputation with enthusiasm, and guests report flickering lights, moving objects and an invisible presence watching them around 4 a.m. The ghost of the former night watchman seems particularly fond of playful pranks, from mysterious phone calls to unexplained laughter echoing through the halls. Originally built for miners and merchants during Zacatecas’s silver boom, the mesón now caters to ghost hunters and thrill-seekers who want their colonial experience with a side of the supernatural. 

These colonial mansions offer more than just comfortable accommodation. They’re portals to Mexico’s aristocratic past, where you can live like royalty while experiencing Mexican history. Each property preserves centuries-old architecture and stories, providing the kind of immersive cultural experience that makes Mexico’s colonial heritage come to life.

Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog or follow her on Instagram.

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10 fun facts to know about Puebla before you go https://mexiconewsdaily.com/travel/10-fun-facts-to-know-about-puebla-before-you-go/ https://mexiconewsdaily.com/travel/10-fun-facts-to-know-about-puebla-before-you-go/#comments Fri, 18 Jul 2025 06:40:53 +0000 https://mexiconewsdaily.com/?p=510783 From hidden tunnels to historical monuments, the highland city is a trove of treasures, treats and tianguis.

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Puebla, capital of the state of the same name, is full of wonders. It’s home to the spectacular Catedral de Puebla, whose twin bell towers are the tallest in Mexico. It’s known for Talavera pottery, being the birthplace of Cinco de Mayo and the Amparo Museum, which houses one of the most impressive pre-Columbian, colonial, and contemporary art collections. Speaking of museums, Puebla is brimming with them, and visitors can admire everything from baroque art to Renaissance murals between bites of camotes de puebla, a famous local sweet. 

Puebla is always a good idea, which is why we’ve compiled a list of 10 fun, quirky facts that will make your next visit to Mexico’s fourth-largest city nothing short of magical. 

1. There are hidden tunnels underneath the city — and you can tour them

Tunnels underneath Puebla
Puebla’s underground tunnels only recently became known to the general public. (Gobierno de Puebla)

Puebla’s underground is as historic as its UNESCO World Heritage Site historic center. Considered a legend until 2015, a series of stone tunnels were discovered by construction workers while developing an urban remodeling project. The submerged pathways are ten kilometers in length and are tall enough to walk through, reaching a height of seven meters. They’ve served a variety of purposes, from transporting treasures of the Catholic Church to soldiers during the Battle of Puebla in 1862. Tunnels can be toured daily, except Mondays.

2. It’s the only city in Mexico where you can have a pasita

Pasitas are also available at famous bar La Pasita. (Luis Alvaz / CC BY SA 4.0)

Puebla’s most iconic cantina is celebrated for serving up an extremely unique libation. In 1916, the owner of Gallo de Oro, a local grocery store, invented the now-famous liquor made of raisins. To complement the shot’s sweetness, he served it with a small cube of cheese, and that’s how it’s enjoyed to this day. Even if a raisin-based liquor doesn’t tickle your tastebuds, visiting La Pasita is a must. The bar is a museum in itself, stuffed to the gills with trinkets from all over the world.

3. Puebla’s most charming street transforms into an antiques bazaar on Sundays

 

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A post shared by Visita Puebla (@visitapuebla)

The Callejón de los Sapos, or Alley of the Frogs, is said to have gotten its name in the colonial era. A nearby river would frequently overflow and flood the alley, attracting frogs. The river no longer exists, but the street does, known for its colorful facades and romantic string lights. Lining the alley are boutique hotels, lively restaurants, and plenty of antique shops that take over the small square from 10 am on Sundays.

4. It’s believed to have been created through divine intervention

Angels supposedly guided Puebla’s founders and raised the bell in its cathedral. (Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia)

The city’s original name, Puebla de los Angeles, sprouted from a vision. In 1531, Bishop Julián Garcés had a dream in which angels descended from heaven, guiding him to a valley where a new city for incoming Spanish settlers could be built from scratch. Puebla was therefore constructed in this very place, and the city, often referred to as Angelópolis — City of the Angels — boasts a coat of arms featuring a castle protected by angels. 

5. Mole poblano was invented out of a desperate attempt to feed an unexpected visitor

You can take authentic mole-making classes at Meson de la Sacristía on Calle de los Sapos (William Neuheisel/CC BY 2.0)

Yet another legend that remains steadfast, it’s said that in 1680, an archbishop dropped in without warning at the Convent of Santa Rosa, now the Museo de Arte Popular. The nuns, with nothing to offer the hungry visitor, fell into a panic. As they prayed for culinary inspiration, the ladies dumped everything they had in the kitchen into a pot: chilis, spices, stale bread, nuts, chocolate and a litany of spices. A few hours later, the unlikely combination transformed into a thick, rich sauce, impressing the archbishop and becoming known as the first mole poblano.  

6. It’s home to more historical monuments than any other city in the Western Hemisphere

Puebla cathedral
Puebla’s Historic Center was named a World Heritage Site in 1987. (Diego Delso/CC BY-SA 4.0)

According to UNESCO, Puebla’s Historic Center is home to 2,619 monuments, more than any other city in the Americas. Beyond the quantity, the quality of the colonial architecture has been exceptionally preserved. One of these many landmarks is the Biblioteca Palafoxiana, which was established in 1646 and is considered the first public library in the Americas, with its collection still intact.

7. The last Volkswagen Beetle was manufactured here

The 20 millionth Beetle was manufactured in Puebla in 1981. (Volkswagen Group)

The largest Volkswagen factory outside Germany is right here in Puebla. The historic 20 millionth Beetle — the first car in history to sell 20 million units — was built in Puebla in 1981 and featured silver metallic paint and black side stripes. The last classic Beetle ever built was also rolled off the production line here on July 30, 2003. Currently, the plant employs over 13,000 people and is considered the largest private employer in Puebla. 

8. You’ve seen it in Hollywood films

YouTube Video

Puebla’s perfectly preserved colonial architecture has made it Mexico’s go-to location for period films. The historic center has doubled for 18th and 19th-century Mexico and Spain in numerous productions, including major Mexican films like the 2009 “Arráncame la vida” as well as international productions like “Frida” featuring Salma Hayek, “Man on Fire” featuring Denzel Washington and “Vantage Point” with Dennis Quaid, all of whom made an appearance in Puebla for the films’ productions.

9. The Historic Center is decorated with French streetlights

Dragon lamppost in Puebla
Orientalist design hit Mexico in the late 19th century, along with other French influences. (Rafael Cabrera Orea)

Somewhere around 1,920 ornate French-style street lamps adorn the center of Puebla. These elegant lamp posts were installed during the 19th century as part of a notable European influence during the Porfiriato, when cities like Puebla underwent dramatic urbanization in an attempt to modernize Mexico. The lamps coincided with the adoption of city-wide electric lighting. Local authorities and business leaders at the time preferred French design, so the street lights were imported and installed. 

10. The first shots of the Mexican Revolution were fired here – and you can still see them

Serdán’s home, still pocked with holes from artillery shells, is now a museum
The Serdán family home, still pocked with bullet holes, is now a museum. (surfeandoelmundo)

On November 18, 1910, the Serdán family home, located at 6 Oriente No. 206, would change Mexican history forever. After receiving an anonymous tip about a revolutionary conspiracy, the forces of Porfirio Díaz’s government surrounded the house and fired a string of bullets into the house’s facade. A violent gunfight followed, and the Serdán siblings, joined by about 17 supporters, resisted the attacks from inside the house. Eventually, law enforcement entered and captured conspiracy leader Aquiles Serdán. Serdán became the revolution’s first martyr and the attack on his home marked the first combat of the Mexican Revolution, which officially started two days later when Francisco Madero launched the Plan of San Luis Potosí. The house now serves as a museum and visitors can see the actual bullet damage that initiated the decade-long conflict. 

Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog or follow her on Instagram.

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Tepoztlán: Inside Mexico’s most powerful spiritual center https://mexiconewsdaily.com/travel/tepoztlan-inside-mexicos-most-powerful-spiritual-center/ https://mexiconewsdaily.com/travel/tepoztlan-inside-mexicos-most-powerful-spiritual-center/#comments Fri, 11 Jul 2025 17:11:49 +0000 https://mexiconewsdaily.com/?p=509052 The quiet Morelos town has long been a haven for those seeking authentic spirituality — here's where to find it.

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Two hours south of Mexico City lies Tepoztlán, a Pueblo Mágico that, in comparison to the capital’s frenetic nature, feels like stepping into “The Jungle Book.” As the city’s gridlocked traffic disappears behind you, making way to the verdant scenery of Morelos, something shifts. The air becomes crisp and clean, nature’s colors brighten and a feeling of tranquility blankets the landscape.

I’ve made this drive many times, and the energetic switch never fails to catch me off guard. Some visitors describe the air as dense, and that’s true: humidity levels are significantly higher than Mexico City, and the surrounding mountains of the Sierra Tepoztlán trap moisture, creating a sensation of thick, tangible atmosphere. Scientists might chalk it up to simple geography, but spend some time here and you’ll quickly understand why so many believe that density is something far more profound.

Panoramic view of Tepoztlan, Morelos from mountain
Tepoztlán is separated from Mexico City by the Sierra del Ajusco. (On^ste82 / CC BY 3.0)

Over the centuries, Tepoztlán has earned its reputation as Mexico’s most powerful spiritual center. But why? What makes this mountain town a spiritual haven for ancient pilgrims and modern day hippies? I set out to find the answer, which turns out to be a mixed bag of ancient legends, sacred sites, and its contemporary role as a premier wellness destination. 

The birthplace of Quetzalcoatl

Quetzalcoatl — the “Feathered Serpent” in Nahuatl — remains one of Mesoamerica’s most revered deities, linked to creation, wind, learning and the morning star. He’s most commonly represented as a serpent adorned with vibrant feathers, a symbol of the union between earth and sky and the endless cycles of life and renewal.

According to ancient legend, Quetzalcoatl was born in Amatlán, a mere 15-minute drive from the town Tepoztlán within the same municipality. It’s said that for over 1,000 years, Indigenous pilgrims have trekked these mountains to reach the god’s legendary birthplace. Upon arrival, they would — and often still do — participate in specific rituals for spiritual and personal transformation, including energetic cleansing, musical practices and chanting.

The zone’s sacred caves and natural hot springs continue to attract spiritual seekers today. Don’t miss Poza Nahualatl, a natural pool where Quetzalcoatl is said to have bathed — the water still feels charged with ancient energy.

Tepozteco pyramid
A challenging hike to the top of the Tepozteco mountain will reward you with the sight of its 12th-century pyramid. (Gobierno de México)

El Tepozteco: The cliffside temple

As a visitor to Tepoztlán, it’s impossible to miss the town’s crown jewel: the soaring Tepozteco Mountain punctuated by dramatic volcanic rock formations and jagged peaks. What many don’t initially notice, however, is the 10-meter-tall pyramid perched atop one of those very peaks like a stone tiara.

Dedicated to Tepoztécatl, a god of pulque, the Tepozteco Pyramid is a pre-Columbian temple often associated with fertility and harvest. This has made the site a major pilgrimage destination, attracting worshippers from Mexico to Guatemala, and it maintains its spiritual significance today.

The hike itself is challenging but deeply rewarding. Depending on the season, you might pass cascading waterfalls, lush tropical vegetation and unique rock formations created by the area’s volcanic origins. The pyramid is dramatically perched on a cliff, offering sweeping panoramas of the valley below.

Living Indigenous traditions

A visit to Tepoztlán isn’t complete without participating in a traditional temazcal ceremony, which you’ll find offered in abundance throughout this Pueblo Mágico. The ancient sweat lodge experience is always led by a local spiritual practitioner, known as a curandero, and begins with an energetic cleansing using the smoke of burning copal resin; some claim this is a New Age incorporation and not traditional to ancient practices.

Once your aura has been properly cleared of negative energy, you’ll focus on your intention and enter the dome-shaped lodge, where temperatures climb to around 105 F. As you sweat profusely in the steamy darkness, your guide will initiate a series of Nahuatl chants, often inviting you to join in calling upon different deities to assist in your figurative rebirth.

The experience is intense, transformative and deeply rooted in traditions that have survived centuries of change. Many visitors describe feeling lighter, clearer and more connected to both themselves and the land afterward.

Copal, an ancient incense made from tree resin, is frequently used in traditional Mexican spiritual practices. (Gobierno de México)

A modern spiritual renaissance

Due to Tepoztlán’s spiritual reputation, dozens of yoga retreats and meditation workshops have flourished here over recent decades. But this isn’t just about downward-facing dogs and breathing techniques. International visitors are drawn to the town’s extensive menu of ancient healing modalities, where plant medicine is often integrated with contemporary healing practices.

Whether you’re seeking chakra alignment, womb healing, sound baths or energy work, Tepoztlán has practitioners who blend Indigenous practices with mainstream wellness approaches. The selection can be overwhelming in the best possible way.

Holistic hotels of every price point dot the lush landscape, from the luxurious Amomoxtli resort to the minimalist Ekko Hostel. Personal transformation can literally be found around every corner. In neighboring Amatlán, Hostal de la Luz stands as perhaps the most prestigious wellness destination — it was designated by the Dalai Lama as a “place of world peace” during his visit to Mexico in 2006, cementing Tepoztlán’s global reputation as a spiritual powerhouse.

The sacred geography of Tepoztlán

To top it off, Tepoztlán’s geographic location is uniquely powerful. Nestled in a valley at about 1,700 meters above sea level, the town is surrounded by three massive mountain ranges that form a natural amphitheater. These mountains, including the striking Tepozteco, create a landscape of dramatic cliffs, hidden ravines and towering peaks that contribute to the area’s palpable energy.

Additionally, the town sits at the intersection of Mexico’s Trans-volcanic Belt and the Balsas Depression, making it a transition zone between two major geological and biogeographical regions: the Tropical Nearctic Zone, extending north, and the Neotropical Zone, which runs south.

Tepoztlán
Tepoztlán’s position in the mountains is said to give it great power. (Volunteering Australia)

The region’s natural power comes from nearby volcanoes, rivers, lakes, waterfalls and mineral springs. Stand anywhere in the valley and you can tap into its buzzing, electric quality that seems to emanate from the earth itself.

Perhaps just as importantly, the people of Tepoztlán have maintained a strong collective identity and commitment to preserving their sacred spaces as a community. There’s a deep intergenerational belief in the sacredness of these mountains and Indigenous placemaking practices. The community has actively resisted commercial development projects that threaten their environment and traditions, such as the longstanding opposition to the widening of the La Pera-Cuautla highway. They’ve also managed to keep chain stores and mass tourism at bay: you won’t find even an Oxxo in downtown Tepoztlán.

Why Tepoztlán reigns as Mexico’s spiritual center

After spending time in this mystical valley, it becomes clear why Tepoztlán has earned its reputation as Mexico’s most powerful spiritual center. The town represents a rare convergence of elements that can’t be replicated anywhere else. From its ancient origins as the legendary birthplace of Quetzalcoatl to its almost supernatural geography and the preservation of Indigenous traditions, Tepoztlán has managed a rare feat: maintaining a harmonious balance of ancient wisdom, natural power and contemporary healing. 

Whether you come seeking transformation, spiritual awakening or simply a deeper connection to something larger than yourself, this mystical mountain town delivers an experience that will stay with you long after you leave its protective embrace.

Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog or follow her on Instagram.

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How to spend a day in Mexico City’s Tabacalera https://mexiconewsdaily.com/travel/how-to-spend-a-day-in-tabacalera-mexico-city/ https://mexiconewsdaily.com/travel/how-to-spend-a-day-in-tabacalera-mexico-city/#comments Fri, 04 Jul 2025 11:13:31 +0000 https://mexiconewsdaily.com/?p=504012 Blow off the usual tourisst hotspots and take a bite of the real Mexico City as it was meant to be experienced.

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While tourists flock to Roma Norte and Condesa, savvy travelers are quietly sneaking north to Tabacalera, a neighborhood that perfectly captures Mexico City’s ability to blend revolution with refinement. Recognizable for the iconic Monument to the Revolution and bordered by tree-lined Paseo de la Reforma, this compact barrio showcases some of the capital’s finest Art Deco architecture and surprising history.

Tabacalera’s many corners showcase a day’s worth of cultural discoveries, culinary adventures, and spontaneous moments that make Mexico City so unique Here’s how to experience the capital’s most underrated neighborhood like a local, from revolutionary coffee to rooftop sunset views.

Monument to the Revolution in Mexico City
The Monument to the Revolution is Tabacalera’s most recognizable icon. (Felipe Alfonso Castillo Vazquez / CC BY-SA 33.0)

Morning: Revolutionary breakfast

Start your morning at Café La Habana, where history and caffeine intersect in the most delicious way. Due to its location on the southern side of Paseo de la Reforma, it’s technically in La Juárez, but so commonly associated with the Monument to the Revolution that it would be silly not to start your day of Tabacalera exploration here.

The beloved Cuban restaurant is known for more than its sandwiches and coffee — rampant are the claims that Fidel Castro and Che Guevara planned the Cuban Revolution from this very diner while in exile in Mexico City. Running since 1952, the restaurant’s high ceilings, central wooden bar and black-bowtied wait staff give you the feeling that you’ve time traveled to the days of Vincente Fernández and Octavio Paz.

Once you’re adequately hopped up on caffeine and that revolutionary spirit, take a 10-minute walk across Reforma for your first museum stop. 

Mid-morning: Descend into history

The Museum of the Revolution is housed within the monument of the same name and serves as the prominent arched landmark in Tabacalera’s Plaza de la República. And isn’t it ironic? You have to descend into the bowels of this towering structure to understand the roots of the uprising that shaped modern Mexico.

Museum visitors look at exhibits at the Museum of the Revolution
The interior of the monument houses a museum for the history of  Mexico’s revolution. (Gobierno de México)

Inside, broad explanations of history from the Constitution of 1857 through the post-revolutionary government are exhibited with the kind of thorough detail that makes you grateful for that strong coffee you just consumed. Information is presented in Spanish, so have your translator handy if necessary or hire a local guide. From here, a 150-peso ticket will grant you access to the top of the monument for impressive views of Mexico City’s sprawling geography.

Late Morning: Unexpected performances

Back on the plaza, take a spin around its circumference, where you’re sure to stumble upon a series of impromptu contemporary dance performances. These group sessions, made up largely of local teens and 20-somethings, generally take place in front of the business district’s reflective facades, and while the choreography may be amateur, it’s genuinely impressive. 

The energy is infectious, and you’ll find yourself lingering longer than planned, which is exactly the point. However, don’t let it cut into the time you could spend admiring the Frontón Mexico. The funky Art Deco building is notable for its bright red facade, but it’s what’s inside that really shines: visitors can choose between trying their luck at the casino’s slot machines or indulging in a midday jai alai tournament. 

Midday: Aristocratic art

Continue north until you reach the National Museum of San Carlos, adjacent to a small park aptly named Parque Tabacalera. The transition from the plaza’s contemporary dance scene to this aristocratic palace feels like stepping through centuries in a matter of minutes.

Valencian colonial-era architect Manuel Tolsá created this part-Neoclassical, part-Baroque masterpiece for the Count of Buenavista, and despite centuries of varying uses — it once served as the official offices for the National Lottery — the building retains its aristocratic elegance. The marble staircases and frescoed ceilings are the backdrop for an extensive collection of European art, including Lucas Cranach the Elder’s “Adam and Eve”, works by Tintoretto and sculptures by Auguste Rodin.

Museo Nacional de San Carlos
The San Carlos National Museum is housed in the former Palace of the Counts of Buenavista. (Gobierno de México)

Afternoon: Hands-on Italian

You’re probably thinking about food now, and instead of sitting down to a predictable lunch, why not indulge in something different? Enter Toscanaccio, where Chef Gurioli, a native of Florence, will teach you the tricks behind making true Italian-style pizza — like where to source authentic mozzarella 10,000 kilometers from Italy — in the heart of Mexico City. You’ll later enjoy your creation with delicious imported wines and homemade pasta, creating the kind of cross-cultural moment that defines modern Mexico City dining.

Late Afternoon: Sweet whimsy and street life

Save room for dessert, which you can have in abundance at Doncella Cafe. The whimsical café serves up fairy-tale themed desserts in every shape and color of the rainbow, an appreciated contrast to the morning’s serious history lessons. The Instagram-worthy presentations and flowery decor are equal parts over-the-top and playful.

Walk it off with a bit of shopping at the many market stalls that surround the plaza. Vocal vendors sell everything from Lucha Libre masks to beaded hummingbirds to steaming hot esquites. Pass by the National Lottery Building, also known as Edificio El Moro, to catch a glimpse of its legendary Art Deco design. For a brief moment in 1946, this structure was the tallest building in Mexico City, a reminder of the neighborhood’s bold mid-century ambitions. 

The El Moro building was one of Mexico City’s first skyscrapers. (Felipe Alfonso Castillo Vazquez / CC BY-SA 33.0)

Before heading to your evening destination, make one more revolutionary pilgrimage to Calle José de Emparán 49, where a modest plaque marks the unassuming building where Fidel Castro   and Che Guevara first met.The contrast between this quiet residential street and the world-changing events that were conceived here is a true testament to Tabacalera’s ability to hide history in plain sight.

Evening: Rooftop revolution

Before dusk, take the elevator up to the top floor of Avenida de la República 157 and step out onto one of Mexico City’s best-kept secrets:Terraza Cha Cha Cha. Filled with plants, pictures and an energetic zeal that feels both sophisticated and welcoming, the westward-facing views are perfect for watching the sunset while sipping on a spicy margarita.

The seafood-forward menu features favorites from many of Mexico’s coastal regions — including an excellent pescado zarandeado — and marks a fitting end to a day of cultural exploration. Bartenders will come to your table with a dolly full of your favorite liquors, and if you’re lucky, a marching band will be competing for airtime in the plaza below. As neon lights illuminate the monument soaring above Tabacalera’s cacophonous atmosphere, you’ll agree that there’s no better place to witness Mexico City’s charming chaos.

Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog or follow her on Instagram.

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10 boutique hotels for your next stay in Oaxaca city https://mexiconewsdaily.com/travel/10-boutique-best-hotels-in-oaxaca-for-your-next-stay/ https://mexiconewsdaily.com/travel/10-boutique-best-hotels-in-oaxaca-for-your-next-stay/#comments Fri, 27 Jun 2025 18:48:16 +0000 https://mexiconewsdaily.com/?p=491525 As ever, traveler sans compare Bethany Platanella has explored the best stays in Mexico's cultural capital to give you the lowdown.

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The quaint city of Oaxaca is nestled in the Sierra Madre mountains, where two of Mesoamerica’s most prominent civilizations were born:  the Zapotecs and the Mixtecs, whose modern descendants call themselves Ben Zaa and Ñuu Savi, respectively. These complex cultures managed to survive invasions by the Mexica (Aztec) and Spanish, and are very much alive today, influencing everything from art to architecture to the festivals for which Oaxaca is so well known. 

Mexico is both colorful and lively, but Oaxaca is spectacularly so. The state is quirky, attracting national and international tourists to partake in festivals like the Guelaguetza, holidays like Day of the Dead and contests like the Night of the Radishes. The designated Unesco World Heritage site encompasses more than the ruins of Monte Albán or spicy tlayudas. Oaxaca is, simply put, a work of art, literally: 12 percent of the state’s population are registered artisans.

In such a culturally rich city, your hotel choice can enhance your stay. The challenge isn’t finding a charming hotel: it’s choosing from so many options. We’ve narrowed them down to ten of Oaxaca City’s best boutiques, and while this isn’t exhaustive, it’s a good place to start your journey.

Hotel con Corazón Oaxaca

A brightly lit hotel bedroom featuring a large bed with white linens and a blue striped throw. The room has white walls and a striking dark blue ceiling with light-colored patterns. Two wooden chairs with blue and white striped cushions sit near an open door leading to an outdoor area with a blue hammock. Another open wooden door on the right reveals more of the exterior.
(Hotel con Corazón)

Size: 17 rooms
Style: Artsy, eclectic, social
Average nightly price: US $120–$180, breakfast included

After Hotel con Corazón’s initial location in Nicaragua proved successful, the brand opened in Oaxaca in 2018. Known as a social impact hotel, the group invests 75% of its profits in local education programs for marginalized youth. Grab a glass of wine from the honor bar to sip on one of the property’s various patios after an Oaxacan cooking class. Tours are available in and around Oaxaca City, each designed to respect local culture and traditions, as well as support environmental conservation.

NaNa Vida Hotel Oaxaca

Size: 14 rooms
Style: Colorful, unique, service-oriented
Average nightly price: US $140–$190, breakfast included

“Nana vida” is a local expression of joy and welcome, reflecting the hotel’s approach. Once a guest house for a Catholic church, the boutique is adorned with works by Oaxacan artists and artisans, with many pieces available for purchase. There is an onsite cantina and spa, and cooking classes can be arranged. Guests receive complimentary soap made with vegan ingredients.

Grana B&B

Hotel room with mirror on wall and open balcony door
(Grana B&B)

Size: 14 rooms
Style: Clean, bright, intimate
Average nightly price: US $140–$200, breakfast included

Grana B&B is set in Casa Navarra, an 18th-century building meticulously renovated to preserve its original structure while incorporating contemporary Mexican design. “Grana” is the name for the cochineal insect, historically used to produce a deep red dye important in  Oaxaca. Rooms are flooded with natural light and centered around a lush courtyard, and the rooftop terrace features views of the Church of Santo Domingo.

Hotel Boutique Parador San Miguel

Courtyard of colonial house
(Parador San Miguel)

Size: 23 rooms
Style: Traditional, quirky, central
Average nightly price: US $160–$220, breakfast available

Walk into the central courtyard of this colonial-style building and you’ll immediately know you’re in Oaxaca. The hotel is a colorful tapestry of folk art, hand-loomed textiles, and wrought-iron details, punctuated by the aroma of local cuisine and chirping parakeets. A member of the Tesoros de México collection of authentic hotels, the Parador’s location near the Zócalo makes this classic hotel a fan favorite.

Boulenc Pan & Posada

 

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Size: 7 rooms
Style: Friendly, chic, culinary
Average nightly price: US $170–$220, breakfast included

What started as an artisanal bakery has expanded into one of Oaxaca’s most well-known boutique hotels. Perhaps the draw is the freshly-made breads and spreads available throughout the day, accompanied by stylish rooms decorated with antique furnishings and contemporary flair. The rooftop terrace is a standout, showcasing views of Oaxaca’s distinctive domes and mountain backdrop.

Hotel Boutique Casa Catrina

Size: 6 rooms
Style: Rustic, creative, intimate
Average nightly price: US $190–$250, breakfast included

Casa Catrina is a renovated colonial family home created by Oaxacan artist Rolando Rojas. Each room is decorated with original artwork that showcases a unique theme and color palette. More “immersive experience” than typical hotel stay, the property has its own temazcal and offers Mixteco-Zapoteco massage services. The standout feature is breakfast, where cooks prepare traditional dishes, such as tamales de mole, in the central courtyard.

Boutique Hotel Casa Cid de León

 

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Size: 8 rooms
Style: Historic, tranquil, luxurious
Average nightly price: US $200–$300, breakfast included

Boutique Hotel Casa Cid de León is an elegant, all-suite retreat set within a historic mansion in Oaxaca’s Historic Center. Each of its eight suites is filled with period furnishings, stucco angels and local artwork creating a refined, intimate atmosphere. The former private colonial residence evokes a sense of nostalgia you can contemplate from its sunny rooftop terrace.

Casa Naila

 

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A post shared by Casa Naila Oaxaca (@casanailaoaxaca)

Size: 10 rooms
Style: Sleek, luxurious, artisanal
Average nightly price: US $250–$350, breakfast not included

The wooden door that protects Casa Naila is so massive you might walk right past. Don’t! The interior of this restored 18th-century home is luxurious, starting with its preserved central courtyard featuring green stone columns. Throughout, you’ll find details unique to Oaxaca — black clay pottery, handwoven rugs, original artwork — while rooms include modern amenities like smart technology and L’Occitane products.

Escondido Oaxaca

Hotel bed and open courtyard
(Escondido Oaxaca)

Size: 12 rooms
Style: Contemporary, stylish, trendy
Average nightly price: US $320–$480, breakfast included

Designed by Alberto Kalach, Grupo Habita’s Escondido Oaxaca is striking, contemporary and distinctly Oaxacan. The hotel is situated steps from Plaza de la Danza, which boasts one of the most spectacular views in the city. Like all Habita hotels, the rooftop pool and stylish social spaces are the main attractions, and the restaurant is known for its seasonal, inventive menu.

Hotel Casa Carmen Morelos

(Casa Carmen Morelos)

Size: 4 rooms
Style: Artistic, elegant, nurturing
Average nightly price: US $350–$550, breakfast included

Casa Carmen Morelos isn’t a hotel in the traditional sense; it’s an experience. Intimate and personalized, staying here feels like staying at a wealthy artist’s private retreat, only the artist is your best friend and intent on pampering you. Every corner of the space is thoughtfully designed, yet the most touching detail is its namesake. The owner, Oaxacan artist Amador Montes, named the hotel after his mother.

Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog or follow her on Instagram.

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Mexico’s authentic travel revolution has arrived https://mexiconewsdaily.com/travel/tesoros-de-mexico-authentic-travel/ https://mexiconewsdaily.com/travel/tesoros-de-mexico-authentic-travel/#comments Fri, 20 Jun 2025 16:46:52 +0000 https://mexiconewsdaily.com/?p=486910 Mexico's little-known tourism scheme offers travelers the chance to get back in touch with unique experiences at one-of-a-kind historic hotels.

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It’s starting to feel like every new hotel worldwide is cut from the same cloth. Each corner is curated with Instagram in mind, from the expected Edison bulb fixtures to mass-produced “locally-influenced” artwork. The lobby bartender sports a denim apron while mixing that flower-topped crafted cocktail you just ordered from a QR menu stamped on a coaster. Don’t worry, though: The drink is mezcal-based — a supposedly authentic nod to Mexico’s deep-rooted agave culture.

While many vacation rental platforms and international hotel chains have homogenized travel experiences across the globe, Mexico has quietly built something real travelers crave: a network of irreplaceable hotels that Hilton cannot replicate.

A hotel room decorated in period Mexican colonial furniture in a 250 year old mansion in Puebla city
Puebla city’s historic Mesón Sacristía de la Compañía hotel occupies a historic 250-year-old mansion protected by the federal government. (Tesoros de Mexico)

The birth of something authentic

In 2000, a group of hoteliers approached Leobardo Espinosa, owner of Puebla’s Mesónes Sacristía, with an ambitious proposal. They wanted to save historic buildings by converting them into hotels and restaurants, and in doing so, create a consortium that both represented Mexican identity and supported traditional culture.

At the time, Puebla had little to offer tourists in terms of hotels and restaurants, so the group headed south to Michoacán. Their idea proved successful. Within eight years, a premium certification program was introduced, and properties that met certain quality standards and embodied Mexico’s cultural, architectural and gastronomic heritage were inducted.

Today, that consortium is known as Tesoros de México, and it encompasses 130 properties across 48 cities in 13 states.

The unreplicable advantage

“What makes the difference is that none of the Tesoros hotels and restaurants can be replicated,” explains Leobardo Espinosa, former president of the Tesoros consortium and current owner of two colonial-era mansions-turned-boutique-hotels in Puebla city — Mesón Sacristía de la Compañía, once described by Journey Mexico as “cute, kitsch and ever-so colorful, a beautiful expression of Mexico, old and new,” and the nearby Sacristía de la Soledad, rented in its entirety to a single party seeking a private experience.

Unlike branded hotels that roll out identical designs across continents, Tesoros properties start with something no corporate headquarters can manufacture: history.

Many Tesoros hotels occupy buildings protected by the National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH), which requires at least 60% of the structure’s original construction to be authentically preserved. Maintaining a 250-year-old mansion’s structure while modernizing it for today’s guests presents some challenges, but it ensures centuries of local history isn’t bulldozed for a luxury brand name.

A room with stone and plaster walls in a historic hacienda in Mexico. The photo features a rustic antique wooden desk with baroque carvings. On the wall is an oval mirror with a gold leaf frame and a an antique-looking sign saying "Tesoros Mexico Hotels and Restaurants" in Spanish.
All members of the Tesoros de México consortium, like Atlixco’s Hacienda Santo Cristo, proudly bear the Tesoros plaque. (Tesoros de Mexico)

The program’s rigorous standards go far beyond facades. Everything inside matters, from thread counts to room sizes, specific bedding quality and Mexican-made amenities. Lighting and ventilation must be current, while artwork and furniture should reflect Mexico or be crafted by Mexican artists. Restaurants must source local ingredients whenever possible, with recipes traditional to the region.

Over 500 requirements must be met, making the process to become a Tesoros property exclusive and often lengthy.

Where authenticity meets economics

This isn’t preservation for preservation’s sake, but instead strategic economic development. “Almost everything is made in Mexico, and some is made in the community itself, such as textiles provided by local women using traditional techniques,” Espinosa notes. While Airbnb or resort chains source furnishings from global suppliers, Tesoros hotels say they create local supply chains that keep tourism dollars circulating in Mexican communities.

The seven Tesoros member hotels and restaurants in Morelos state, for example, support local chefs and exhibit art made by Mexican artists. In Puebla, local textile producers participate in interior design efforts while nearby suppliers provide cheese, honey and other ingredients for traditional dishes of the state like mole or chile en nogada.

The effects extend beyond direct employment. “Many small hotels see Tesoros de México as a goal,” Espinosa explains. “It lifts the standard, even if they’re not in the program.” This aspirational quality means the certification influences far beyond current members, inspiring small hotel owners to showcase their property’s authentic character.

Member sites must preserve at least 60% of the historic building’s original construction to qualify. (Tesoros de Mexico)

The real challenge: Perception versus reality 

While competition with Airbnb and international chains poses challenges, Espinosa identifies a deeper threat: people’s perception of security.

“The main threat is security and the perception of insecurity. Perception is often more influential than reality,” he says.

A 2023 report by the Center for Tourism Research and Competitiveness (Cicotur) at Anáhuac University found that nearly 94% of tourism service providers in Mexico warn about insecurity’s negative effects. States like Michoacán and Guanajuato have been particularly impacted by increased organized crime-related violence and infrastructure disruption.

The impact of potential tourists’ perception of safety extends beyond hotels and restaurants to surrounding working-class and rural communities who rely on programs like Tesoros for regular income. When visitor numbers drop, everyone from farmers to artists suffers immediate hardship. Addressing this perception gap is critical not only for individual hotels but for entire regions dependent on tourism.

A growing movement

For North American travelers weary of identical experiences, Tesoros represents something increasingly rare: authenticity. Since Mexico’s Tourism Ministry obtained the rights to officially manage and regulate Tesoros de México in 2008, new properties have joined annually, and plans are in the works to increase membership growth with locations that best reflect the country’s unique character.

The newest addition is in Atlixco, Puebla. Hacienda Santo Cristo is a recognized historic monument that dates back to 1540. After falling into disrepair, the INAH supervised a meticulous three-year restoration under which 80% of the hacienda’s colonial architecture has been preserved, including original walls made from volcanic stone and brick. It now functions as a luxury hotel and event space with two restaurants, a spa, a pool and spectacular views of the Popocatépetl volcano.

The future of authentic travel

Tourism to Mexico is booming. TripAdvisor named Cancún the top vacation destination for North Americans in 2025. However, for those seeking something different, genuine and irreplaceable, initiatives like Tesoros de México represent more than a certification program. As hospitality platforms and chains typically optimize for efficiency and scalability, Tesoros optimizes for something that can’t be quantified: a true sense of place.

Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog or follow her on Instagram.

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10 must-do experiences for a perfect weekend in Tepoztlán https://mexiconewsdaily.com/travel/10-must-do-experiences-for-a-perfect-weekend-in-tepoztlan/ https://mexiconewsdaily.com/travel/10-must-do-experiences-for-a-perfect-weekend-in-tepoztlan/#comments Fri, 13 Jun 2025 08:10:54 +0000 https://mexiconewsdaily.com/?p=482536 Where to stay, what to eat, what to see — Bethany Platanella has got everything you'll ever need to know for a great weekend in Tepoztlán.

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Tepoztlán: So close to the capital, yet so far from the urban bustle. With each visit to this charming Pueblo Mágico in Morelos, my dependency grows. Its perfect balance of spiritual energy and pueblo culture makes Tepoz, as it’s so fondly called by locals, a delightful escape from the city. 

Tucked at the base of the towering Tepozteco mountain, there are just enough experiences here to fill a memorable weekend getaway: hiking to waterfalls, exploring ancient pyramids, purifying yourself in a traditional temazcal ceremony and wrapping it all up with a creative cocktail in a lush greenhouse-turned-restaurant. Whether you’re a Mexico City resident seeking mountain air or an international traveler wanting authentic culture, Tepoztlán is sure to deliver.

A street in Tepoztlán filled with brightly coloured buildings.
Tepoztlán has gained a reputation as an enticing destination for those seeking nature with a side of spirituality and tranquility. (Expedia)

How to get to Tepoztlán from Mexico City

ADO’s OCC line runs up to 23 departures daily from the Taxqueña terminal, reaching Tepoztlán in 1.5 hours on a good day or up to 2 hours with traffic. Tickets start at 140 pesos. Rideshares are also an option — just let your driver know your destination and expect to pay tolls for both the ride there and the return trip.

When to visit: The best time for a getaway to Tepoztlán

Visit during the June-to-September rainy season for waterfall sightings — hike in the mornings for the best experience. The dry season offers perfect outdoor weather and clear mountain views. Any time works, but pack accordingly: layers and rain gear for wet season, light clothes and hats for dry season.

1. Hike to the Tepozteco pyramid

Tepoztlán is most famous for the Tepozteco temple, atop a mountain on the edge of the city. (Wikimedia Commons)

The classic Tepoztlán experience. This moderate 2-hour hike up the Tepozteco mountain rewards you with a 12th-century pyramid at the top and panoramic valley views. Start early to beat the crowds and heat. For something further off the beaten path, hire a local guide to take you to the “portal” — your guide will know exactly what you’re referring to when you ask for this undercover site.

2. Experience a traditional temazcal ceremony

A temazcal
For an unforgettable and invigorating temazcal experience, Hostal de la Luz is hard to beat. (Booking.com)

This millennia-old traditional Mesoamerican sauna cleanses you in all the ways: physically, mentally, emotionally and spiritually. Hostal de la Luz offers my preferred temazcal experience — ask for Andrés to lead you through the ceremony. It’s intense but transformative, perfect for those seeking a deeper connection.

3. Explore the New Tepoztlán Market

A woman at a stall in Tepoztlan market
Tepoztlán’s market is a feast for the sense. (Happy Sleepy)

From the bright colors to the mouthwatering scents, this three-level market completed in 2024 is a feast for the senses. Start your meandering with a fresh fruit juice or a steaming espresso made using beans from Chiapas. Next, try itacates, Tepoztlán’s famous triangular fried masa, topped with everything from nopales to grasshoppers. The market perfectly captures this Pueblo Mágico’s blend of tradition and modern Mexican culture.

4. Sample authentic Tepoztlán cuisine

Pink ice cream in cone held by hand
Tepoznieves has over 100 flavors available to sample and has become something of a Mexican ice cream legend. (City Foodsters / CC BY SA 2.0)

Tepoztlán’s cuisine extends beyond the charming markets. Around town, don’t skip a visit to Tepoznieves — a local ice cream shop with over 100 flavors — and a bite of cecina, the traditional dish of Morelos. These aren’t just tourist foods; they’re what locals actually eat. The flavors here reflect the town’s mountain setting and Indigenous heritage.

5. Visit the Museo de Arte Prehispánico Carlos Pellicer

Pre Columbian figurines in glass case
The hundreds of pieces at this museum were once the collection of Tabasco native and poet Carlos Pellicer. (México Desconocido)

This compact museum houses impressive ancient artifacts that tell the story of the region’s pre-Columbian cultures, once the private collection of poet Carlos Pellicer. It’s a great activity for a rainy afternoon or when the sun is at its peak, adding some cultural context to your Tepoztlán experience.

6. Relax at Amomoxtli

Massage bed looking onto window
Amomoxtli boasts sweeping views of the Sierra del Ajusco-Chichinautzin. (Amomoxtli)

Book a day pass at what I call the Soho House of Tepoztlán. This hidden gem is tucked away among lush pine and tropical plants, offering spa treatments that incorporate ancestral techniques and local herbs harvested from the property’s onsite gardens. The service is top-notch and you won’t find a better spa experience in town.

7. Have cocktails at Margarita Concept Garden

A couple eat and drink in a garden restaurant.
Unwind in comfort at Margarita Concept Garden. (Margarita Concept Garden/Instagram)

This unique greenhouse-turned-restaurant has become the social hub for trendy visitors from Mexico City. The setting is Instagram-worthy, but the drinks, food and atmosphere are the real draw. Try the Ambar, a spiced martini of mezcal, Lillet and Ancho Reyes with a side of homemade gnocchi.

8. Wander the Historic Ex-Convent of the Nativity

Convento de la Natividad in Tepoztlán
The convent is a fantastic example of early Spanish colonial architecture, and well worth checking out even for those not historically inclined. (Meer)

This Unesco World Heritage site showcases 16th-century frescoes of fantastical creatures and detailed colonial architecture. It’s a peaceful contrast to the town’s bustling energy and offers insight into Tepoztlán’s layered history, and its artsy entrance made entirely of seeds gives it that unique flair you’ll soon come to expect in this part of the world.

9. Discover local street art and artisan culture

Traditional Mexican illustrations on amate paper
Amate paper, made of tree bark, is crafted in Tepoztlán and used for traditional Mexican illustrations. (Etsy)

Tepoztlán’s murals and artisan shops reflect the town’s creative spirit. Wander the cobblestone streets to find handcrafted jewelry textiles and artwork that capture the region’s mystical energy. Paintings and lamps made from traditional amate paper, crafted from tree bark, are an ideal souvenir to take home.

10. Take a nature walk to Amatlán

Panorama of mountains at sunset
Amatlán at sunset. (Drejtinm / CC BY 3.0)

This nearby village offers excellent hiking opportunities and a chance to explore beyond central Tepoztlán. Local guides can show you hidden waterfalls and share stories about the area’s spiritual significance. Amatlán is the alleged hometown of Quetzacoatl, the Mesoamerican feathered serpent god of wind, wisdom and creation.

Where to stay in Tepoztlán

Casa Fernanda: A 5-star boutique hotel for its breezy design, excellent restaurant and unpretentious pool. It’s like staying at your rich friend’s country villa with easy town center access.

Amomoxtli: Another luxury option with excellent service and the best spa in town, tucked among lush pine and tropical plants. Within its luxe garden property is the only Casa Dragones tasting house outside of San Miguel de Allende.

Hostal de la Luz: Perfect for spiritual seekers, this sprawling Amatlán property offers both traditional treatments, like temazcals, distinctive ones, like labyrinths and gamma chambers. The views are breathtaking.

La Buena Vibra Wellness Resort & Spa: A peaceful mid-range retreat with beautiful gardens, full-service spa and renowned Sunday breakfast buffet. Great wellness atmosphere at a more accessible price point.

Hotel Teocalli: Excellent budget choice near the center with relaxed vibes, pool, gardens and on-site massages. Clean, comfortable rooms in an ideal location for exploring on foot.

Tepoztlán has this way of sticking with you long after you’ve returned to the city. Maybe it’s the mountain air, the energy that locals swear by, or simply the fact that everything feels more manageable at a slower pace. Whatever it is, I keep finding excuses to go back. Pack your hiking boots, a swimsuit and an open mind: Tepoz is waiting to work its magic on you too.

Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog or follow her on Instagram.

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The 10 coolest museums in Puebla (and where to find them) https://mexiconewsdaily.com/travel/the-10-coolest-museums-in-puebla-and-where-to-find-them/ https://mexiconewsdaily.com/travel/the-10-coolest-museums-in-puebla-and-where-to-find-them/#comments Fri, 06 Jun 2025 07:30:56 +0000 https://mexiconewsdaily.com/?p=479741 Ancient history, a colonial library and the birthplace of the revolution all await visitors to Puebla and its surrounds.

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Puebla has always charmed me. The first time I visited, I was immediately impressed by the city’s bold mix of architecture, brightly-tiled facades and churches that, upon entry, swallowed me whole. I strolled down Calle de los Sapos at night, string lights twinkling above me, Skittle-colored buildings to my right and left and, like any good Mexican city, teenagers making out on the public benches along the sidewalks all around. I loved it.

In the years I’ve been living in Mexico City, I often steal away to Puebla. I enjoy the unpredictability of this city of 3.4 million people, but there’s also a certain security here that doesn’t exist in the capital. A Poblano, for example, will generally bring their car to a stop as I cross the street instead of nearly running me over while hurling insults in my direction. 

Puebla is a happy place, and despite its obvious European influence, there’s something about it that feels undeniably Mexican. Walk down any street and you’re likely to pass an alleyway where older ladies whip up molotes, a sort of fried masa calzone stuffed with potatoes, cheese or shredded chicken. Sit in the square for a while and you’re sure to catch an impromptu live music performance or, if you’re really lucky, a high-energy Michael Jackson impersonator. Of course, visiting any colonial city wouldn’t be complete without popping in a museum or two. Here are ten of Puebla’s best museums and what makes them special.

Museo Amparo

Gallery of the Museo Amparo
(Museo Amparo)

The Museo Amparo is located in Puebla’s Historic Center. It’s renowned for an extensive collection of art and artifacts spanning pre-Columbian, colonial, modern and contemporary Mexico. Housed in two meticulously restored colonial-era buildings, one of which was the city’s first hospital, the Museo Amparo offers immersive installations and a broad collection of historical artifacts. It is Puebla’s most well-known museum for a reason, and a must-see for any visitor.

  • Perfect for: Art lovers, history buffs and anyone interested in Mexican culture
  • Cost: General admission is 85 pesos per person
  • Address: 2 Sur 708, Centro Histórico

Don’t miss: The view from the rooftop terrace sweeps over the entirety of downtown, including the recognizable tiled dome of Cathedral of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, Puebla’s most important church.

Museo Internacional del Barroco

Exhibit at Museo del Barroco
(Gobierno de Puebla)

This striking contemporary museum is a visual celebration of Baroque art and architecture from the 17th and 18th centuries. Designed by Pritzker Prize-winning Japanese architect Toyo Ito, the building houses interactive exhibits and international collections from around the world. Eight themed exhibition halls surround a central courtyard and fountain, serving as a contemporary metaphor for the movement and theatricality of the Baroque period.

  • Perfect for: Architecture enthusiasts, art historians and families
  • Cost: General admission is 100 pesos per person
  • Address: Blvd. Atlixcáyotl 2501, Col. Reserva Territorial Atlixcáyotl

Don’t miss: Admiring the building itself. The contemporary masterpiece is made up of concrete curves and innovative exhibition spaces, with natural light pouring through the ceiling. 

Museo de Arte Popular Ex Convento de Santa Rosa

Kitchen of the ex convent of Santa Rosa in Puebla
(Gobierno de Puebla)

Housed in a Baroque building that dates back to 1698, what is now a museum originally served as a béguinage for Dominican nuns before becoming a convent. Over the centuries, the building’s purpose shifted from military barracks to a psychiatric hospital for men and even became an apartment complex before its restoration as a museum in 1973. The rooms inside showcase crafts and traditions hailing from Puebla’s seven indigenous regions, as well as exhibits on Talavera ceramics, traditional festivals and regional dances. 

  • Perfect for: Fans of folk art, crafts and Mexican traditions.
  • Cost: General admission is 48 pesos per person
  • Address: Calle 3 Norte 1210, Centro Histórico

Don’t miss: The legendary Talavera-tiled kitchen where, legend has it, Sister Andrea de la Asunción created the first mole poblano.

Museo de Arte San Pedro

san Pedro museum in Puebla
(Gobierno de Puebla)

A 16th-century hospital, San Pedro is a museum distinguished by an elegant double-arched quarry stone courtyard, said to be the second largest in Puebla. The museum’s five main exhibition halls span more than 1000 square meters and include a permanent gallery of sacred art. Novohispanic and 19th-century art lead the collection, with works by renowned artists such as Miguel Jerónimo Zendejas, Vicente Manuel Talavera, Luis Berrueco and Gaspar Conrado. 

  • Perfect for: Art enthusiasts, colonial history lovers, and cultural event seekers.
  • Cost: General admission is 48 pesos per person
  • Address: Calle 4 Norte 203, Centro Histórico

Don’t miss: The recreation of the hospital’s historic apothecary, which served the community for more than 350 years.

Museo de la Revolución (Casa de los Hermanos Serdán)

(Secretaría de Cultura)

Walk through the very home where the first shots of the Mexican Revolution were fired. The Serdán family, accused of stockpiling weapons and planning an uprising against then-President Porfirio Díaz, attempted to resist a government raid on November 18, 1910, which ended in tragedy. Walk through the perfectly-preserved shoe workshop, bedrooms, kitchen and the very spot where Aquiles Serdán hid before he was discovered and killed.

  • Perfect for: Families and those interested in the Mexican Revolution.
  • Cost: General admission is 48 pesos per person
  • Address: Av. 6 Oriente 206, Centro Histórico

Don’t miss: The unmistakable bullet holes throughout the house and on the facade, a symbol of the Revolution’s undeniable impact on Mexican history.

Casa de Alfeñique

Casa de Alfenique museum in Puebla
(Gobierno de Puebla)

Another Baroque-mansion-turned-museum, the Casa de Alfeñique was constructed in the late 18th century and named after the elaborate white stucco facade resembling the traditional Spanish sweet alfeñique, a concoction of sugar, egg whites and almonds. Admire over 1,500 pieces on display across 16 exhibition rooms which include period furniture, Talavera ceramics, religious oils and other pieces illustrating daily life in Puebla during the 18th and 19th centuries, scattered through a charming museum. 

  • Perfect for: Architecture aficionados and regional history enthusiasts
  • Cost: General admission is 48 pesos per person
  • Address: Calle 4 Oriente 416, Centro Histórico

Don’t miss: The exhibit of historic artifacts including carriages, local gastronomy and period clothing.

Capilla del Arte UDLAP

outside view of Capilla del Arte UDLAP
(Universidad de las Américas Puebla)

This architectural gem belonging to the Universidad de las Américas Puebla (UDLAP) features an eclectic French-inspired iron and glass structure imported directly from Paris. Once known as the Fábricas de Francia, the space now hosts a contemporary art gallery, artistic forum and mini reading area, regularly hosting national and international exhibitions, concerts, art cinema, lectures and family-friendly performances, all free to enter.

  • Perfect for: Contemporary art lovers and students
  • Cost: Free to enter
  • Address: Calle 2 Norte 1204, Centro Histórico

Don’t miss: The regular cultural events calendar that includes musical Wednesdays, dance and film Fridays and creative Sundays.

Biblioteca Palafoxiana

Interior of Biblioteca Palafoxiana in Puebla
(Instituto Nacional de Arqueología e Historia)

This Unesco-recognized library was founded in 1646 and was the first public library in the Americas. Inside are more than 45,000 rare books and manuscripts, including nine books printed before the year 1500 and eight of Mexico’s earliest printed works. The library’s furnishings and organizational structure have remained virtually unchanged for over two centuries, offering a true feel of colonial Mexico’s scholarly world. While it’s hard to categorize, this is probably the most historically important museum in Puebla.

  • Perfect for: Bibliophiles, researchers and history lovers
  • Cost: General admission is 40 pesos per person.
  • Address: Calle 5 Oriente 5, Centro Histórico

Don’t miss: The 1493 Nuremberg Chronicle, one of the earliest illustrated books in the world and an exceptionally rare incunabulum featuring over 2,000 engravings.

Casa del Deán

Mural at Casa del Dean Puebla
(Instituto Nacional de Arqueología e Historia)

A mansion built in the late 16th century, the Casa del Deán is celebrated for housing murals considered among the finest examples of Renaissance art in the Americas. Much of the original structure was destroyed in the 1950s, though two rooms upstairs survived and are adorned with bright frescoes, earning it the nickname of “Sistine Chapel of the New World”. The blend of Renaissance and Indigenous motifs reflects the house’s Spanish owner and the local artists who decorated it.

  • Perfect for: Art buffs and architecture lovers
  • Cost: General admission is 75 pesos per person
  • Address: Calle 16 de Septiembre 505, Centro Histórico

Don’t miss: The upstairs murals “The Procession of the Sibyls” and the “The Triumphs,” based on the poems of Petrarch.

Museo Fuerte de Guadalupe

Courtyard of Museo del Fuerte de Guadalupe in Puebla
(Museo Amparo)

Located on top of a hill in a historic fort, this museum showcases the fortress’s crucial role in the Battle of Puebla in 1862. Exhibits trace the site’s evolution from a colonial-era chapel to a defensive stronghold against French invasion. Walk through interactive exhibits, admire 19th- and 20th-century artifacts and immerse yourself in a large outdoor diorama that recreates scenes from the famous battle of Cinco de Mayo.

  • Perfect for: Military history fans and families
  • Cost: General admission is 75 pesos per person
  • Address: Av. Ejércitos de Oriente S/N, Centro Cívico Cinco de Mayo

Don’t miss: Panoramic views of downtown Puebla from the top of Acueye Metepec hill.

Bethany Platanella is a Mexico City–based travel writer passionate about local markets, yoga, mangos, and the thrill of new adventures. Discover her latest guides and insider tips at aweekendawayin.com and follow along on Instagram for more inspiration.

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Off the beaten track in Oaxaca city https://mexiconewsdaily.com/travel/jalatlaco-xochimilco-oaxaca-city/ https://mexiconewsdaily.com/travel/jalatlaco-xochimilco-oaxaca-city/#comments Fri, 30 May 2025 08:15:47 +0000 https://mexiconewsdaily.com/?p=475294 In the streets and murals of Jalatlaco and Xochimilco, Oaxaca city's two oldest neighborhoods, writer Bethany Platanella finds the soul of the state's capital.

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I’ve just gotten back from my third trip to Oaxaca city. They say the third time’s the charm, and now I know what they mean. Until now, I just didn’t understand the hype. I liked Oaxaca, sure, but it seemed like everyone I knew absolutely loved it.

Oaxaca is pretty. It’s clean. It’s charming. It just never swept me off my feet.

This time was different. Had I known before that all I needed to do was wander beyond the Historic Center, I would have meandered into Xochimilco and Jalatlaco so I could discover the magic that everyone else saw right away. It was in these two neighborhoods, on the outskirts of the lively downtown, that I fell in love with Oaxaca. Was it their colorful murals? The unexpected juice bars? Or was it the common thread I later uncovered that tied the two zones together? After all, Xochimilco and Jalatlaco are the two oldest neighborhoods in Oaxaca City, each with their own personality, history and appeal.

Xochimilco: Quiet streets meet Zapotec heritage

Xochimilco, Oaxaca City
Xochimilco isn’t the wildest region of Oaxaca city, but it might just be the most effortlessly charming. (Carlos Bustamante)

I stumbled upon Xochimilco in an innocent, yet desperate, attempt to find a salad. Oaxaca is widely recognized for its culinary prowess, but after a few days of mole and mezcal, the body starts craving vitamins.

Nearing my destination, I noticed the roads getting windier, the facades quirkier and the views more dramatic. Murals of hummingbirds and historical figures sprouted from cobblestone streets while bright bougainvillea cascaded down from the rooftops. What I noticed above all, however, was how incredibly quiet it was: just me, the birds and an occasional lonesome tourist.

Xochimilco is recognized as one of Oaxaca city’s oldest neighborhoods, or barrios, as they’re called herein Oaxaca. Like Jalatlaco, it was a Zapotec settlement prior to Spanish colonization. Unlike other neighborhoods that were swallowed by colonial customs, Xochimilco has maintained its distinct Indigenous cultural and religious traditions to this day. Which raises the question: why does this neighborhood, separated from the nation’s capital by 300 miles and several mountain chains, have the same name as Xochimilco in Mexico City? That’s because the Mexica (Aztecs) invaded modern-day Oaxaca in 1486 and brought with them Xochimilcan soldiers who, naturally, named the settlement after their own hometown.

As part of Oaxaca city’s Historic Center, Xochimilco is protected under federal law as a historic monument zone. Most of these monuments were built by the Spanish, including the striking 18th-century San Felipe Aqueduct and the 16th-century Parroquia de Santo Tomás. There is also the bustling Mercado Sánchez Pascuas, where vendors sell traditional Oaxacan foods, and Calle Rufino Tamayo, known for its bold and colorful street art. Plazuela de la Cruz de Piedra is the barrio’s public square, and there is no shortage of cafes, restaurants, galleries and artisan workshops that offer visitors a peek into the daily life of a Xochimilco resident. 

Where to eat in Xochimilco: Ancestral Cocina Tradicional, celebrated for elevated Oaxacan cuisine with a twist in a lush garden setting and El Empedrado, for a cozy, casual environment that includes rooftop seating and live music.

Jalatlaco: Colonial history meets contemporary art

Jalatlaco, Oaxaca
Jalatlaco is gradually gaining the recognition it deserves, and for good reason too. (Bucketlist Bri)

I discovered Jalatlaco more intentionally. Feeling like I had exhausted what there was to see in the Historic Center, I asked Google to recommend some hidden gems. Jalatalco topped the list, and popping over I could feel the difference immediately. Named Oaxaca city’s first Barrio Mágico in 2023, the neighborhood, livelier than Xochimilco but more chill than the area around the Zócalo, felt truly local. I passed an artist painting a giant mural of corn, each kernel a different shade of gold and purple. I walked behind an older gentleman in a cowboy hat on his way to lunch. I even passed by NN Gallery, a contemporary art space showcasing regional talent.

Above me were rooftop restaurants, with groups of Oaxacan 20-somethings laughing over pizza. There was artwork at every corner, and when I returned later that night for dinner, the streets were lined with string lights.

Like Xochimilco, Jalatalco was historically inhabited by indigenous Zapotec communities and was occupied by Mexica soldiers in 1486. During colonization, the Spanish under Francisco de Orozco converted the old village into a Spanish enclave. That’s why the most recognized historical attraction is colonial: the Temple of San Matías Jalatlaco, which has origins tracing back to the early 17th century, can be easily distinguished by its green-hued stone facade. 

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the leather tanning industry flourished in Jalatlaco due to its proximity to the Jalatlaco River. With the rise of synthetic materials and the extinction of the river, the craft disappeared here but still remains a key part of the barrio’s history. The Jalatlaco Entrance Arch is a fun photo-op and guides you directly to Calle Aldama, a picturesque street that embodies the artistic essence of the neighborhood.

Where to eat in Jalatlaco: Asador Bacanora Oaxaca, a trendy outdoor dining experience with a Michelin-recommended menu creatively highlighting both Oaxacan and Mexican dishes and Santa Hierba Jalatlaco for a tropical brunch vibe with rooftop seating, featuring a menu that caters to a variety of dietary preferences.

Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog or follow her on Instagram.

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